Interesting Times: The Impact of Wearables on the Watch Market


The last few years have seen a significant rise in wearable technology with the smartwatch capturing most attention.

In particular, the Apple Watch grabbed headlines across the world, reportedly flying off the shelves or languishing on them depending which media you choose to believe. Nevertheless, the commitment from Cupertino to the idea has hastened the inevitable flood of competitors, with Motorola’s Moto 360 leading the charge for the Android camp.

But what has been the repercussion on the real (or dumb) watch market? And where might it lead?
Last year, Reuters reported steep falls in Swiss watch exports to the Asian market, with third-quarter sales significantly below expectations. In some regions, year-on-year declines were double to triple the analysts’ predictions.  A Deloitte report reflects this, showing clear pessimism for the China and Hong Kong markets, where the report also highlights that acceptance for smartwatches is much higher.

While the Reuters report showed timepieces in all price segments were impacted, it was watches in the low to mid-segment that were most affected, with the 200-500 franc category slipping 14.5%. Not coincidentally, this is the price point of most current smart watches… And in worse news for the traditional watch industry, market researcher Gartner predicts smartwatch sales will shoot up from 30 million in 2015 in to 50 million this year – and then to 66.7 million in 2017.

However, I would hesitate to say that this is a straight cannibalisation of sales. Perhaps people are just not buying watches as much? Or perhaps the wearables are a whole new market?

In fact, in a Mintel report from 2010  of more than 1,500 UK people, 14% said they had no need for a watch with the percentage doubling among 15 to 24-year-olds. I would suggest that it is this audience who would prefer to spend their money on a device that becomes a seamless part of their mobile, entertainment, communication landscape. The fact it tells the time too is academic.
So, will my beloved Seamaster and Omega watch winder find themselves on the scrapheap of history?

Not so fast! According to the industry, higher-end watches are remaining more buoyant. However, consumers are consolidating their collections, opting to invest in one single all-rounder watch rather than owning a range for different occasions. Meanwhile the rising price of metals, and especially gold, has pushed up the cost per unit, which may discourage purchasing but can actually help maintain some growth in the market overall.

And the luxury market is also paying attention to the smartwatch opportunity, showing some acceptance of the technology – or perhaps the attraction to a purchasing cycle where technology is considerably more disposable than a treasured family Rolex. While Apple has tried to court the big-ticket spenders of the watch market with its $10,000 gold Watch Editions, Tag Heuer has launched the most expensive smartwatch that doesn’t look like a toy: the Connected watch, running on Android.

It will be interesting to see how this plays out – and I’m reminded of the history of digital watches in the 80s, as they moved from high-tech luxury to cheap child’s plaything.


While I suspect the luxury market will move away from its dalliances with tech and focus on a core market of passionate watch owners who seek status as much as a timepiece, the middle market will be the space where the smartphone will rule. However, in doing so, it might just also create the next generation of real watch owners who, now accustomed to wearing something on their wrist, want to graduate from a gadget that needs regular upgrading to jewellery that could last a lifetime.

Comments